Photographing Fireworks at a Distance 🎆
04 Juli 2025
Fireworks Photos with a Long Zoom Lens: A Better Approach
Photographing fireworks from a distance of several kilometers can be tricky if your tripod setup is not absolutely stable, especially when using long exposures. I used a Nikon Z30 with the 50–250mm lens on a tripod, aiming to capture sharp bursts with surrounding buildings in the frame:
📸 Fireworks Photography: The Classic Recipe
Here is the standard setup for capturing fireworks:
- ISO: 100 (or as low as your camera allows)
- Aperture: f/8 to f/11 for sharpness and depth
- Shutter Speed: 2 to 10 seconds (use BULB mode and adjust based on burst duration)
- Focus: Manual, set to infinity or pre-focus on a distant object
- White Balance: Daylight or Auto
- Stabilization: Use a tripod and disable VR
- Remote Trigger: Optional, but helps avoid camera shake
This setup works great when you're close to the action and using a standard or wide-angle lens. But what if the fireworks are several kilometers away, you're shooting with a long zoom, and your tripod setup isn't exactly rock-solid? That's where things get interesting.
The Problem
While the fireworks were crisp, the buildings appeared blurry. The cause is vibrations from people walking nearby and the long shutter time (several seconds). Even if you take pictures without a tripod and have VR enabled, the system could not stabilize the image over such long exposures.
And tripods, especially on unstable surfaces, don't eliminate this issue. Using shorter shutter speeds helps reduce motion blur, but it introduces a new challenge: you often miss the perfect moment. Sometimes, all it takes is a fraction of a second to turn a potential masterpiece into a chaotic blur of light.
13,0s f/8,0 ISO 100/21° f=200mm/300mm
The Solution: Slow-Shutter Video
Switching to video mode at 1/25s shutter speed solved the problem:
- Sliding through the video to capture the perfect frame as a new level of content creation
- No motion blur in buildings or other static elements
- Fireworks still looked vibrant and dynamic
- Overall stabilization was noticeably better
You lose the long light trails typical of multi-second exposures, but the bursts remain visually striking.
Instead of hoping to hit the perfect moment with a single shot, just extract stills from the exact frame you want. For example, using VLC (Shift+S or Menu → Video → Take Snapshot) makes it easy to grab high-quality frames directly from your footage.
Video resolution these days is 3840×2160. Not far off from stills at 5568×3712 with my camera. That's more than enough to crop, zoom, and relive every spark in crisp detail: gone are the days of grainy VGA 640×480 clips from early digital cameras. The kind that looked halfway decent on a VHS-era TV. This isn't VHS anymore. This is IMAX, and you are in the front row.